Control arms

These are new control arms made by 034 motorsports, made from billet aluminum. Very well made. better then the OE ones that broke while trying to press in new bushings.

 Here is what they look like on the sub frame which is what hold in the transmission for this car.

And this is the unit installed on the car, in which the transmission will rest on, above that is the steering rack and the vacuum booster for the brakes. I was told the bolts for the sub frame should be torqued at 60 ft/lbs because there longer bolts for the aluminum bushings yet haven't torqued them yet.

I started to install the Oil pan onto the engine block, the tool I was using was this;

I was using this torque wrench to torque the bolts on the oil pan to 20 Newton meters (15 Ft lbs). Turns out this torque wrench is to old and became faulty.
The result is this.

A screw that broke in half,  sucks, so to everyone wanting to trying an engine built...make sure your tools aren't broken, lol.

I will make another post when I figure out how to fix this problem.

Powder coated parts

Here are the Intake manifold, Oil pan, and the Valve cover for the engine. These pieces just came back from getting powder coated and they look great.

Sub frame bushing replacement

Ok now that the sub frames are taken care of paint wise, now is time for the bushing. In the picture above are aluminum bushings from 034 motorsports. *Before* taking anything apart on the vehicle put these in the freezer(like the one you use for foods :P) for at LEAST 2 hours. Mine have been in the freezer for well over a month.

Due to laws of matter the molecules in matter get closer when the temperature is lower. Thus the bushings get smaller. after this you can put them in the sub sub frame, should still be a tight fit. If it is hard to push in, just use a rubber mallet and gently hammer it in. Like so.

After fitting all of the bushing in the holes and hammering them down I then clamped them and let them sit over night.

 

 However after this this there appears to be one set of bushings that don't seat properally and fell out, I will make another post when I figure out how I am going to remedy this situation.

To be continued 

These are some new products that I got, all of which mount to the subframe, the control arms are OE.
 Those red rods are suspension tie rods from 034motorsport.com better and cheaper then stock so that is a score.

These are the transmission/differential mounts, track density, and the things in the other bags are delrin control arm bushings both also from 034motorsport

I started to paint the sub frames after scraping off loose rust, which wasn't much, and paint i then cleaned it with Eastwood's "Pre" worked great, then put on Rust encapsulator.

  These are the sub frames after I sprayed a chassis paint on them.
The sub frame in the back holds the differential and the sub frame in the front holds the transmission.

These are the two products I used on the sub frames, both from Eastwood.com and very good products.
Spread very easy and bonded to existing paint very well.

ECU prep

This is the wire harness that was used with the stock Bosch Jetronic Computer system. I'm pretty sure it wont be reused with the new ECU I'm putting in the car, however, I am going to keep it just in case I need any of the connections or whatever.

After disconnecting the Jetronic systems, you will then have to disconnect the connectors that I have outlined in purple. Be sure to label the wires (both sides) so that you will know how they go back together, because, believe me you will forget. :P There will be a red wire that goes to a black connector on the fuse board, that goes to the battery and is part of this harness and needs to be disconnected as well, after doing that, there may be a few other connectors (depending on model)

 At the bottom right side of this Relay panel there is a black connector that connects to the harness that needs to be disconnected, I believe this connector is used for the tachometer, will do another post when I figure out how to wire the tachometer from the new ECU to the cluster.

These brown wires are grounding cables for the harness. The bolt on the closest one will have to be removed because 3 of those grounds are to the harness.

Then you can pull out the harness and stash it away on the shelf because you may need it.
This harness should have everything for the engine, there will be another harness for the headlights; vacuum cruise motor, radiator motor wire, horn assembly, and if your model has an external temperature sensor, then that will likely be on that harness as well, however the model I am working on does not have this sensor.
That harness needs to remain in the car and will be connected to the fuse board.