clutch install

This is a flywheel, with 60-2 tooth reduction for a sensor to pick up. It goes on the back of the engine, connecting to the crankshaft.

This is the back of the engine, that hole is where the starter motor goes.

First clean off the flywheel with a wire brush and make sure no oil/metal or anything else is on it.

Take the pilot bearing which fits in the flywheel and the spline of the transmission fits into. Comes already lubed however, put just a very tiny amount on it and wipe any excess off, make sure none of the lube gets on the flywheel. Any lithium based grease will work.

Gently tap the bearing into the flywheel after greasing it very lightly.

Then you will put it onto the engine, Most flywheels will only fit on one way like this one I used. just keep turning it until all screw holes line up.

Lol this time I got a new "old" style torque wrench so it wont break bolts...hopefully.

This part is really important, torque the bolts to exactly 74 foot pounds. Any less the flywheel fall off while the car is running.

This is the clutch disc, which rests in between the flywheel and the pressure plate.

This is a clutch alignment tool, to fit the clutch plate onto the flywheel.

Fits into the grooves onto the clutch plate.

then put it on the flywheel.

That is the pressure plate which goes over both and gets torqued to 18 foot pounds.

then  after its all together and aligned in the center, you can remove the clutch alignment tool.

Ignition coils install

These are Ignition coils, this car originally used a distributor, however with the new ECU (engine control unit) the engine ignition will be controlled electronically.

This is the result after i assembled it. not sure if it matters but the coil connections where closest to the firewall for this application. Had to file down some metal tabs at the end to assemble this, not a problem, really easy. just wear a particle respirator because metal particles can be slightly dangerous.

You will need one of these, A tap and die set, taps make female connections and dies make male connections you will also need the corresponding drills as specified in the supplied glossary.

I however did not have metric drills and all I had were standard and didn't want to make a trip to the store. After doing some googling I found the closest size between metric and standard, Will be different for everyone. so pick out your bolts you wish to use and Match the threads on your tap. then find your corresponding drill.

rest the thread of the tap and the screw, this will tell you if it the right size. Has to be a automobile bolt, once you find your drill and tap get a scrap piece of metal to test this on just to be sure, you only get one attempt on your automobile.

Use one of these also to check the threads. it comes in the kit. its called a thread gauge.

Keep you drill well oiled or you will warp your host metal or the drill bit.

keep your drill level while drilling, I had a level on my drill to help.

I drilled the hole on a scrap piece, keeping it well oiled.

This is the tap and the tap holder.

Tape a level to the unit and hold it up where you want and mark the holes.

I used string to map out a lot of the engine in the engine compartment to make sure the spot i picked would not get in the way of any other parts...that would be bad ;)

one of the holes that i was tapping was hard to get to so I just used a vice grip instead of the tap holder.

stick the tap in the hole and turn it to thread the hole.

I used this to cover up the old welds i broke off to get the old battery stand off.

Like this!

then painted it.

This is the result, after all that work, this will make the cars fuel ignite. woot.

Transmission part assembly

This is a 6-speed O1E transmission from a 2000 Audi s4 its slightly bigger from the O1A transmission that was in the car from the start but will fit none the less. I will be covering the assembly of parts into the bell housing of the O1E transmission as seen above.

This is the clutch slave cylinder, brand new OEM unit for the old transmission(O1A) it connects to the master cylinder through a hose. The master cylinder in attached to the pedal assembly and when he press the clutch pedal it creates pressure in the master cylinder through hydraulic fluid and transfers it to the slave cylinder.

The slave cylinder from a different angle.(side)

These are the parts I will be putting onto the transmission, from left to right it is as follows:
Throwout bearing, bolt, fork insert, fork pin, and the transmission fork.

First push the plastic insert into the whole with a swivel in it.

 Second put the fork over the transmission Spline, making sure the female end of the Fork fits onto the slave cylinder. Like a hat :D. The plastic insert should fit in a divet on the fork.
Third  hold it in place and put the fork pin over it and bolt it in.

This is the tool required for this bolt its a Torx socket # 45, i just hand torqued it because the schematics didn't say anything about it needing a torque spec.

Like so!

Then you put on the throwout bearing, this is what slams against the pressure plate to make the clutch plate transfer momentum through torque in the transmission and then it gets to the wheels. It has to plastic ridges that will make it snap into place, be careful they are plastic, however they are hard, they can break.

 last I installed the hose that connects the slave cylinder to the master cylinder, and that is it.

Suspension

Ok, In this post I will be explaining how I installed my K&W variant 3 race coil over suspension on the front.

First off sit down, rest the coil over in your lap, then push down on the purple insert as seen in this picture and remove the bolt. It will appear like it will release and shoot springs everywhere, but it will not do this so you don't have to hold on to it.

This is the order of the Setup, the metal washer thing goes on top "above" the strut tower in the chassis. the rubber mount which is "not" OEM(supplied by 034), has one green side on it, that must face the purple washer on the shock. I believe when I took this apart (been a while) that the green was facing upwards instead of the way I just told you, yet this is the way I was told to do it. So don't panic. With this mount green down, and if I'm right then Green up on OEM. This picture was taken with the bolt on, however Follow step one and Remove the bold before putting the rubber mount on, bolt goes on last.

Place the rubber mount on the shock, I used a jack for this, however some ways may work better. hold it still and aligned and jack it up into the tower, put the metal insert and screw the bolt back on.

Then this is the result, The front right coil over installed without any other attachments.......soon to come ;) so stay tuned.